Walker Hancock and the 1958 Comprehensive Plan for Gloucester. Zoning, Master Arts Plan, signage, trees, Inventory of significant homes, and more! #GloucesterMA

American sculptor Walker Hancock volunteered in many civic capacities while a Gloucester resident. While serving as the Chair of the city’s Art Committee in the 1950s, Hancock prepared a Master Plan that managed to forecast an array of evergreen topics: land use, zoning, preservation, open space, Main Street & downtown, public monuments, an arts commission, city improvements (like signage), beautification (trees and blooms), health & safety, tributes, and history– and all through a practical cultural and economic vision.

Robert F. Brown, Harold C. Dexter, Myron U. Lamb, Frederick H. Norton served on this committee with Walker Hancock.

As a World War Two Monuments Men leader, Hancock had overseen the prioritization, protection, and eventual inventorying of tens of thousands of cultural works of significance looted by Nazis. A decade later, cataloguing Gloucester’s plentiful assets was a rather small job for this talented committee–especially with Hancock serving as Chairperson! A brief few sentences from this amazing document allude to his expertise:

“During the Second World War the Allied Expeditionary Force acted under a directive signed by General Eisenhower which required them “To take all measures consistent with military necessity to avoid damage to all structures of cultural, artistic, or historical value, and to assist wherever practicable in securing them from deterioration consequent upon the processes of war”. 

To implement the directive of the Supreme Commander, lists of “Protected Monuments” were prepared, designating buildings of sufficient importance to justify the efforts to preserve them even during military operations. Many private houses were included in these lists. 

We owe it to ourselves and to the Nation to be at least as solicitous in regard to our own heritage of such structures and to secure them wherever possible from deterioration consequent upon lack of appreciation or neglect.

Attached is a list of structures in Gloucester considered of sufficient architectural value to warrant special effort to preserve them. It is not a complete list and does not include many of the charming houses the destruction or mutilation of which would be a loss to the city as a whole…”

Committee’s Master Plan report (Chairman, Walker Hancock, for Gloucester, Mass., 1958)

Flash forward decades, from 2000-2023, multiple arts ordinances, inventories, and drafts of master arts plan were crafted and/or attempted. (Prior to 2000–and prior to Hancock– there were wonderful asset inventories. Gloucester has amazing archives!) I served on multiple arts related groups and commissions (roughly 2010-2018), the downtown Cultural District, Tourism, and various downtown working groups. Numerous ideas and topics now were covered in this 1958 report, and would have been extremely helpful to reference.

With the upcoming 2023 Comprehensive plan underway and the first public meeting coming September 9th, I thought the writing from 1958 would be of great interest. Read through to see what suggestions have been realized or incorporated and which might be worthy of attention again.

Image: For the 1958 report, artist Betty deVicq provided a rendering for a potential beautication of the Fitz Henry Lane House.


Contents

  1. INTRODUCTION
  2. LAND USE
  3. BUILDINGS AND RESTORATIONS
  4. COMMERCIAL CENTER
  5. PUBLIC MONUMENTS
  6. CITY IMPROVEMENTS
  7. CIVIC ART COMMISSION
  8. APPENDIX (selection of home street addresses)
  9. LIST OF VALUABLE STRUCTURES

The following resolution was adopted on unanimous rising vote by the Municipal Council at its meeting in the White-Ellery House on August 1, 1957,

“Be it resolved that the Cape Ann Historical Association, together with other groups and individuals, recommend from time to time to the city Council and its successors their ideas and plans for similar improvements of the city of Gloucester in order that the Council may adopt all or part of said recommendations in furthering their overall plans for the future of the city.”

In 1606 Champlain named our Cape “Le Beauport”. For 334 years since that time Gloucester’s economic welfare and tax revenue have resulted directly or indirectly from the fishing industry and the recreation business. Our population now is the same as it was in 1890.

Because of modern transportation and Route 128, it is very probably that our historic economic pattern will change. Along with it will be a physical change. 

The greatest success in any venture is the result of planning and preparedness. The most intelligent action we can take at this time is to plan our city for a changing economic pattern and a possible increase in year round population from 26,000 to 40,000. 

Such plans revolve around the City Planner and the Planning Board. This report is to support the work of these people and to go one step further in a ld that is ordinarily beyond their scope of activities, but is an important adjunct to it. 

Its purpose is to preserve and enhance the reasons why tourists come to Gloucester, why people will choose to live here and commute to their jobs, and many an industrialist would choose to locate his new plant here.

The subject can be called the preservation and furtherance of our aesthetic advantages, or the protection of the beauty we now have and will have. Its aim

is making the most of our natural beauties in contrast to the stereotyped and ugly procedures in other American communities.

The proposals contained in this report are based on two fundamentals: beauty and cost. Many can be adopted in the normal course of planning with no cost beyond that which would ordinarily be created, such as road signs. Others, such as a Recreation and Art Center, can be provided for as to location and adopted when cost permits. Some proposals can be adopted by the Council, some by private citizens.

B. Zoning – Careful zoning of “raw”, or undeveloped, land offers any community the means for preventing overcrowding of the land that has been the common practice in all cities and towns in the past. Until 1916 there was almost no control over what a man might do in the development of his own land. He could break it up into as small lots as he could sell and the result was the problems we face today with slums and deteriorating old neighborhoods everywhere. In 1916, the first zoning ordinance was put into effect in New York City, the need for which had arisen from the greediness of land owners and landlords in building the tenement districts on the East Side of New York.

Bitterly opposed at first as a blow to personal freedom in ownership of property, zoning laws have spread all over the world and are now considered as necessary in urban life as a law prohibiting driving on the wrong side of the street. 

Zoning legally is based upon the police power to provide for the health, safety, and welfare of the public. Until recently there has been no legal basis for regulation with purely aesthetic ends in view, but within the last few years there have been opinions handed down by the courts that a community has some legal right to regard aesthetic values. Heretofore the courts have held that aesthetics are strictly a matter of taste – “What I detest, you may adore”. Hence there have been no legal standards in aesthetics. In the years ahead, however, they will be as binding as other matters covered by zoning laws.

A phrase now included in most zoning ordinances, “and to provide for the communities”, gives a legal foothold to the aesthetic considerations of the use of land. 

Zoning can regulate the size of building lots and so do much to provide more space and light and air in residential areas. It can segregate different use of land and prohibit incompatible uses anywhere, such as residential use in an industrial area, as is usually the case in modern zoning ordinances, and

Land Use – 3

Prohibiting industrial use in a residential area.

In Gloucester, there is need for increasing, through wise zoning, the minimum lot size throughout parts of the city. At present 10,000 square feet constitute the minimum sized house lot in new developments. Recorded or registered lots of 5,000 square feet are still usable, and there are many of them.

In those parts of Gloucester still undeveloped, future sewers are “economically impracticable”, to quote a recently completed survey of the sewer needs of the city, and for this reason alone lot sizes should be increased in some parts of the city from 10,000 to 20,000 square feet per lot. Lot sizes in these categories would result in future years in preserving much of the present character of Gloucester which make it such an attractive city in which to live. The recent zoning of the Eastern Point section for 40,000 square foot lots makes certain that the general character of that portion of the city will not change. 

From an economic point of view it should also be borne in mind that small houses on small lots contribute less tax revenue than they require for municipal services while large houses on large lots are income producing homes. That distinction is in the vicinity of $16,000.

One current danger is that land which should be reserved for future residential development may be zoned for industrial use under the pressure that Gloucester needs industry and anywhere that it might go is the place to put it. In any future rezoning of raw land,

“we should make certain that all potential uses of it are considered impartially before making the final decision. The land is any community’s basic resource. We should protect and wisely use that resource in Gloucester in planning our future development. This is a job for all the residents of Gloucester, not just the planning board and the city council.”

1958 Committee Report for Gloucester, MA, Chairman Walker Hancock

Land Use – 4

A Citizen’s Council for city planning should be organized to work in consultation with the planning board to insure that the city’s comprehensive plan is in keeping with the best interests of the community, and to support the Planning Board in carrying it out. This council should be composed of a cross section of the various interests represented among the tax-payers of Gloucester, such as merchants, industrialists, real estate agents, home owners, educators, etc. Such a group, which should be as small as possible, consistent with balanced representation, would provide a democratic safeguard against infringements upon the best public interest.

C. Reservations.– The attractions that have made Gloucester famous a summer resort are not merely places for swimming and boating and other amusements. The appeal to the summer vacationist, as well as to people seeking an all year-round residence, of large areas of unspoiled woods, moorland, and shore without artificial “tourist conveniences” can hardly be overestimated. The existence on Cape Ann of such features has brought to our city great numbers of people who prefer them to the kind of tourist amusements offered, for example, by Salisbury and Revere beach. Our good fortune in having an established community of this character should be recognized in time to preserve it. 

Fortunately, Ravenswood Park, Stage Fort Park, the Magnolia Shore Reservation, and Mount Ann have been saved for the future. Mr. Roger Babson’s recent gift to the Cape Ann Historical Association promises possibilities of making the main entrance to the city impressive, handsome, and of unusual interest to the tourist. Start has been made at Plum Cove by the action of the Municipal Council in setting the area aside for future use as a school site and recreational area. But these reservations would be far from adequate even for a city the present size of Gloucester were it not for the other open areas that will soon be lost to us unless some action is taken. 

Land Use – 5

As an example of the kind of land that should be maintained in its present state, the southeast shore of Goose Cove may be cited. The changing beauty of the bank of flowering shrubs gives pleasure to thousands of passers-by the year round.

A much larger and more important opportunity exists in Dogtown.

D. Dogtown Common. – The Civic Arts Council strongly recommends that the Gloucester Municipal Council give serious consideration to the preservation of Dogtown Common as a permanent historical monument. We make this recommendation for the following reasons:

1)The abandoned village of Dogtown is a tourist attraction of the first magnitude. It is the only place in the eastern United States where one may see the original environment of our early settlers. As time goes on, this site will become of increasing importance in bringing visitors to Gloucester.

2)This area is of especial interest to those interested in nature, as it abounds in rare flowers and is inhabited by  many species of birds and animals. The geologist finds this region of glaciation an important study area.

3)It is one of the duties of this generation to pass on to our children and grandchildren some areas of unspoiled nature where they may escape for a time from the pressures of civilization. Few cities in New England have the unique advantage of having such an areas within walking distance of its center. If the area is once in “developments” it can never be reclaimed.

4)It is feared that pressure for more land for homes and industry will soon irretrievable encroachment on this area. The only reason it has escaped so far is because of the excessive costs of putting in roads, water pipes and sewers. The area marked on the accompanying map, comprising Dogtown Common, is smaller in relation to the island portion of Cape Ann than is Central Park in relation to Staten Island. It is suggested that Municipal Council determine the owner-

Land Use – 6

ship of this land with the objective of acquiring it by 

(1)forming a land trust (such as the Squam Rock Land Trust) where private subscription would raise the money for purchase; 

(2) acquisition by the State, in which case the city loses its control over the area;

(3) direct purchase by the city as part of its park system

We feel that of the three alternatives it would be most practicable for the city itself to acquire the land.

During the Second World War the Allied Expeditionary Force acted under a directive signed by General Eisenhower which required them “To take all measures consistent with military necessity to avoid damage to all structures of cultural, artistic, or historical value, and to assist wherever practicable in securing them from deterioration consequent upon the processes of war”. 

To implement the directive of the Supreme Commander, lists of “Protected Monuments” were prepared, designating buildings of sufficient importance to justify the efforts to preserve them even during military operations. Many private houses were included in these lists. 

We owe it to ourselves and to the Nation to be at least as solicitous in regard to our own heritage of such structures and to secure them wherever possible from deterioration consequent upon lack of appreciation or neglect.

Attached is a list of structures in Gloucester considered of sufficient architectural value to warrant special effort to preserve them. It is not a complete list and does not include many of the charming houses the destruction or mutilation of which would be a loss to the city as a whole.

In the eyes of posterity the Universalist Church, the birthplace of Universalism, will undoubtedly be the most important monumental building that the city possesses. Its exceptionally fine proportions and detail and the great beauty of its tower make it one of the precious examples of American architecture of its period. The City Hall and the Church of Our Lady of the Good Voyage are both Gloucester landmarks of special significance–the former because of the impressiveness of its mass and dominant position which it occupies in the city, the latter because of its carillon, its twin towers, and celebrated statue. The towers of all three of these buildings have been made famous by countless paintings which are shown all over the country.

Gloucester has few residences of the architectural pretentious of many in Salem and Newburyport. Nevertheless, it contains many old houses that have a distinctive quality that contribute more than is generally realized to the 

Buildings and restorations – 2

Character of the city . Many such houses have already been superficially spoiled. It would be possible to restore most of the houses that have been unwisely covered with substitute materials by the use of appropriate siding and painting. The Civic Art Committee holds itself ready to advise on the proposed alteration or restoration of any such building. The aid of this Committee is proffered in cases where community effort is needed to restore churches designated in the list by brining to the attention of citizens the importance of the project.

The west end of Main Street offers a remarkable opportunity for restoration that would give real distinction to the neighborhood near the Legion Hall and the Town Landing. The brick houses on the water side from Town Landing to the STrand Theater were built in 1832, the result of a friendly agreement between the families concerned to create an entire street front that should be harmonious. It would require only a similar public spirited move on the part of the present owners and a surprisingly small investment of money to put back street floor entrances and windows as they were originally and make the west end of Main Street an inviting section of the commercial district. If private initiative and means are lacking, some of the uses suggested for certain of these buildings are: a community art center, another club or meeting place, a fisheries museum – or the whole area might be revitalized as a shopping section.  This is an opportunity that should not be wasted. 

Enclosed is a sketch of the Fitz Hugh (sic) Lane House dominating a parking lot in the Locust Street area to show how the restoration of a historic site can be effectively combined with modern commerce.

Among the new buildings needed in Gloucester, a Recreation Center and an art Center are of prime importance. It is hoped that the sites, at least, for these projects can be determined in the near future with a view to arousing the necessary public interest to insure their eventual realization. Again, this committee stands ready to advise on the location or design of such buildings.

Illustration: Betty deVicq drawing circa 1958 [rendering of potential restoration of “Stone jug” on Ivy Court, overlooking Duncan street, the former home and studio of Fitz Henry Lane.]

The commercial center is of vital economic importance to Gloucester. It has already been pointed out that commerce and industry provide more tax income to the city than the municipal services they require while the opposite is true of residences. If the commercial center has the right combination of tangibles and apparent intangibles, it will cause more people to use Gloucester’s Main St. area than other shopping centers or areas, with the resulting financial benefit to the city itself. 

Few cities in the country built their commercial centers after the invention of the automobile. Therefore, all cities are in some stage of tearing down buildings in their race to overcome the competition of spacious shopping centers. Our merchants and city government are making progress with the traffic flow and parking problems. We all realize there is more to be done. That is not the  province of the Civic Art Committee, yet that group would not hesitate to suggest to the planners and the merchants a bold plan to consider. 

There are more reasons than traffic, parking, merchandising and sales promotions which cause shopping in one city rather than another. A local citizen touring the country would observe the commercial centers of certain communities which create an impulse to stop while others created an impulse to hurry on through. That intangible element is usually carefully planned. It might be the limitation on height of all the buildings. The observer might notice that the store signs are limited in size or in color or that none of them blink. Perhaps the eye-appeal is due to set-backs from the sidewalk with grass and landscaping or cool shade trees. It might be harmonious store fronts.

The large shopping centers today with their circumferential parking have done their best with landscaping to create eye-appeal and pleasant shopping, yet that artificial attempt does not compare with natural beauty of our Middle Street, and its irreplaceable old buildings on one side of Main Street and the colorful

  1. General. – Public monuments–particularly those out of doors–are an immediate indication to the newcomer of the community’s pride in its history and the achievements of its citizens. Gloucester possesses a masterpiece of sculpture in the statue of Joan of Art by Anna Hyatt Huntington; and the Gloucester Fisherman’s Memorial by Leonard Craske, is sought out by tourists as one of the most interesting sights of the city. In addition, there are monuments of historic importance such as the Spanish War Memorial and the Civil War Memorial at the City Hall. These should be maintained by occasional cleaning.
  2. Maintenance. – The proper care of bronze and granite monuments is a simple matter if not neglected for too long a time. Bronze sculpture out of doors should be sprayed or washed occasionally with clear water to remove the dirt that gathers where the rain does not reach it. When the entire surface is exposed to the air it will be covered evenly with a natural green patina. Bronze tablets should be washed with clear water and, when dry, brushed with floor wax softened in naphtha. The bronze should never be lacquered. Granite can be cleaned with a mixture of saturated solutions of fluoride and oxalic acid, brushed on quickly and then flooded with clear water. It is necessary to remove all traces of the acids. Preparations for cleaning granite which will not harm the stone are available commercially.
  3. Locations. – From time to time new monuments may be erected, or it may be deemed advisable to change the location of existing monuments. These locations involve various considerations such as proper relation to the flow of traffic, scale in relation to surrounding buildings or open space, planting, material, and fitness of design. No decisions regarding the placing or design of public monuments should be reached without competent expert advice. 

a. Street Signs

  1. Directional Signs. The city of Gloucester at present employs a very competent sign painter. There is an opportunity, given a consistent policy and some proper direction, of making the necessary directional signs contribute to the attractiveness of the city instead of adding to the sense of disorder, as at present. Legibility is the first requisite of a good sign. The shape should be simple and the background color in harmony with its setting. The signs used on the state highways are successful because of the dark green background which blends with the surrounding country and the white letters which are easily legible from a distance. The simple Roman letter is the most easily read of any, and the better the proportions of the letters the more legible they are. The use of unnecessarily large signs with brilliant colors should be avoided. 

Where commercial directional signs are required they should be painted under city supervision and placed by the city  in locations designated by the Planning Board. They should not be scattered. Instead, they  should be grouped together in tiers on sign boards or post specially constructed in order that changes or additions may easily be made. The color and type of lettering used should be established by the city. Uniformity in these would avoid confusion, contribute to the orderliness of the city, and give equal advantages to all concerned. The cost of these signs would be borne by the parties requiring them. 

  1.  Commercial Signs. Control of commercial signs in certain areas is within the province of zoning. They should be regulated according to size and construction. 

Illuminated signs may become a great nuisance even at a distance. The utmost consideration should be given to the control of such signs; and even though they be located in commercial districts, they should not be placed as to be noticeable from residential areas. 

Improvements–2

There is an opportunity even in the simplest lettered sign to add an attractive feature to a building. Among the examples of good commercial signs in Gloucester are: The Folly Cove Designers, Cape Ann Fruit Company, Hatfields Color Shop, the Captain’s House, Gloucester Marine Exchange, and the Cape Ann National Bank.

  1.  Advertising Billboards. Billboards have put a serious blight upon American cities as well as upon our highways. They often completely destroy the beauty of the best cities; and wherever they appear the aspect of the community is cheapened. By creating confusion they cause a definite traffic hazard. No advertising billboards should be permitted on public property. The strict regulation of those on private property is not only a prerogative but a duty of municipal as well as state governments. In its unanimous decision sustaining the validity of the District of Columbia Redevelopment Act, the Supreme Court said: 

“The concept of the public welfare is broad and inclusive. The values it

 represents are spiritual as well as physical, aesthetic as well as monetary.

It is within the power of the legislature to determine that the community

should be beautiful as well as healthy, spacious as well as clean, well

balanced as well as carefully patrolled.”

b. Fences. –  Fences, like signs, can greatly mar an otherwise fine street or landscape. On the other hand, a fence can be made good-looking as well as strong with little or no difference in cost. Unfortunately there has been no consistent consideration given to the appearance of fence built by the city. They range from handsome granite walls that would do credit to any community in the world to unsightly rails along some of our finest shore drives.

Types of heavy fences have been developed for parkways strong enough to keep a drunken driver from running off the road, but which actually add to the attractiveness of the landscape. Here, as in the case of signs, the background

Improvements –3

should be taken into consideration in selecting the appropriate type of construction. 

c. Trash containers. It is hoped that an awakened city pride will result in some degree of care about the disposal of rubbish. Trash containers, strategically placed, will help as reminders as well as to provide the means of easy rubbish disposal. However, the trash containers themselves should not be unsightly. Sufficient attention can be directed to them without the use of garish colors. White lettering on dark backgrounds will generally be found preferable.

d. Cleaning and Policing of Roads. – Miles of gloucester’s scenic shore roads are constantly littered with rubbish. Strict enforcement of existing ordinances with some exemplary prosecutions, should go far toward correcting this situation.

e. Place Names and Markers. – It is an important duty of the community to keep alive in the minds of its younger people the achievements of citizens who have brought honor to it in the past. Place names and monuments are a perpetual reminder of the example of courage and moral strength set by our forbears. As the names of Washington and Lincoln give inspiration to the nation, so should the names of Gloucester’s courageous sea faring men inspire this and future generations of our citizens. These men should be memorialized in the names of new streets, squares, and traffic circles that will be added to the growing city. In addition to the name, markers should recount briefly the heroic act for which each man is remembered. Among those who should be honored in this manner are Howard Blackburn, Marty Welch, Alfred Johnson, Clayton Morissey, Sol Jacobs, and Alden Geale; and there are other men still living who should be given the same recognition.

The sites of the old shipyards, about a dozen altogether, should be appropriately marked, to include the names of the more famous schooners built at that location. Site marking should be carried to other locations of interest, such as the Steamboat Wharf at Duncan’s Point.”

This would have been great incorporated into the HarborWalk markers–and a wonderful Schooner Festival trail brochure.

f. Planting. There should be more to the city physically than building walls

City Improvements —4

and the barren pavement of streets and parking lots. To be desirable as a place where people like to live or visit it must be attractive, and much of a city’s attractiveness comes from its parks and other open green spaces and, particularly, from well-cared for plantings of flowering shrubs and street trees.

Gloucester’s elms were once the glory of the city. Within the lifetime of single generation of hundreds of trees have been lost to disease, neglect and street-widening with no adequate financial program for replacement, feeding and yearly care to prevent destruction by disease. 

The trees in the yard of City Hall are good examples of what can happen to good trees. The pavement of the parking area surrounding City Hall surrounds the trees to their trunks. They are never fed. Water cannot reach their roots except in very small quantities and the results are shown in their drying branches. 

When Rockefeller Center in New York was built, the way was shown for the proper care of street trees. Large pits of well fertilized soil were prepared with plenty of humus for the retention of moisture and to provide adequate aeration of the roots. The surface of these tree pits was covered with widely spaced paving blocks set in sand so moisture and air could easily penetrate to the roots of the trees. The trees have thrived, even on Fifth Avenue.

Our own trees, in City Hall yard and elsewhere in the city, would take on a new lease of life if they could be treated in the same way.

Gloucester has an unusually favorable climate for plants of all kinds because, being surrounded by the sea, its climate is tempered and always contains a good percentage of moisture. We can grow here many species of trees and flowering shrubs which do not thrive in more inland communities. 

Many communities, particularly in the South and West , have become famous for their vigorous program of beautification through attractive plantings. As much attention is paid to the maintenance of the parks, trees and shrub collections

City Improvements —5

as is paid to the maintenance of city streets. Such programs pay off in dollars because these communities are more desirable in which to live and do business and because their excellent plantings make them more attractive.

In Gloucester it would be worth our while to develop a long range plan of beautification of the city through planting of street trees, collections of appropriate flowering shrubs in our parks and as settings for our public buildings, and to relieve the barren deserts of our public parking lots. The yearly cost need not be great and would be amply justified  by the improvement in the appearance of our city.

e. Care of Burying Grounds – In the very center of the city, one off Church Street, the other off Prospect Street, there are two early 19th century burying grounds which are a disgrace to the community. These places have been used as dumps for the last fifty years or more. In the Church Street cemetery certain caved-in brick vaults are a hazard to the children who play around them. From time to time all kinds of rubbish, bed springs to garbage, have been thrown into them. The Prospect Street cemetery, exposed to public view, is merely a large tract of unkempt grass and weeds scattered over with broken gravestones. Children use it as a playground. It is, in fact, an ideal place for a playground and a small park, greatly needed in the congested heart of Gloucester. Planting could make it a beauty spot at relatively small cost. In answer to the legal problems that such a project would entail, it should be noted that the Babson School was built on an old cemetery. 

The ancient burying ground entered from Centennial Avenue is in worse condition then the one on Church Street. In it are buried soldiers of the Revolution and the War of 1812, the architect of the Universalist Church, and the citizens who built it, as well as many of Gloucester’s founders and benefactors who deserve to be remembered for what they did for the city.

In order to safeguard the appearance of the city and to carry out in detail many of the points previously mentioned in general, it is recommended that Gloucester follow the successful example of many American cities by instituting a Civic Art Commission to advise on all municipal matters involving aesthetic considerations. This is necessitated by the fact that such an unusually large proportion of this city’s economic resources and attractions are of an aesthetic nature. 

The Civic Art Commission would be composed of seven members appointed by the Municipal Council on the recommendation of the Council of the Arts. The City Planner would be a member ex officio. The remaining positions would be filled by a business executive, an authority on architecture, an artist, a representative of the garden clubs, a representative of the Cape Ann Historical Association, and a citizen at large. Where appropriate, a qualified university or technical school professor could be appointed. Except in the case of the City Planner, terms would be for three years, two members to be replaced each year. 

The Civic Commission would:

  1. Approve all works of art to be acquired by the city, whether by purchase, gift or otherwise and would approve its proposed location
  2. Require to be submitted to it, whenever it deemed it proper, a complete model or design of any work of art to be acquired by the city.
  3. Approve the design and proposed location of any building, bridge and its approaches, arch, gate, fence or other structure or fixture to be paid for, either wholly or in part, from the city treasury or for which the city or any other public authority is to furnish a site, but any such action taken by the Commission should conform to the city’s Comprehensive Plan.

Public Art Commission —2

  1. Approve any structure or fixture to be erected by any person up0on or to extend over any highway, stream, lake, beach, square, park or other public place within the city
  2. On main highways, in important areas such as the center of the city, and in areas surrounding parks, squares, public beaches, historic or other important buildings, adopt regulations to c control outdoor advertising
  3. Approve the removal, relocation or alteration of any existing work of art in the possession of the city
  4. Examine every two years all city monuments and works of art and make a report to the Director of Public Works on their condition with recommendations for their care and maintenance

“Work of Art” would include all paintings, mural decoration, inscriptions, stained glass, statues, reliefs, or other sculptures, monuments, fountains, arches or other structures intended for ornament or commemoration.

In all matters pertaining to work under a city department, the head of that department would temporarily act as a member of the commission but would have not vote.

The Commission would not be an enforcing agency. However, permits from the city would not be issued until matters within the province of the Commission were approved by all.

“If the Art Commission failed to act upon any matter submitted to it within sixty days after such submission, its approval of the matter submitted would be presumed.

Walker Hancock & Committee, 1958 (simple and easy sentence!)

The accompanying chart of the organization of the Municipal Government shows how the Cape Ann Arts Council and the Civic Arts Commission would fit into the organization of the city. 

Following is a list of old structures in Gloucester exemplifying the styles of building that contribute greatly to the character and charm of the city. Special effort should be made to preserve these and others like them, as they will become increasingly important in the future.

The list is by no means a complete one. In some parts of the city, such as Annisquam, the number of interesting houses makes a choice of the best examples very difficult. 

Fortunately, most of the houses here listed are well cared for. Some, however, are neglected; some have been inappropriately restored or altered; some have been unsuitably painted. 

Street | Number

  • Angle Street: 8
  • Beacon Street: Unites Spanish War Veterans
  • Chester Sq: 2
  • Concord St.: 4, 23
  • Dale Ave.: City Hall
  • East Main St.: 108, 130, 161, 168, 182, 247, 261, 283
  • Eastern Ave.: 56, 118
  • Eastern Point Rd.: 4, Fairview Inn
  • Essex Ave.: 302, 412, 433
  • Friend St.: 17
  • Gerring Rd: 3
  • Gould Court: 20, 22
  • Granite St.: 3
  • Hesperus Ave.: Master Moore House
  • Appendix – 2
  • Highland St.: 7,8,9,17, 19, 25, 32, 37
  • Hovey St.: 4
  • Ivy Court: Fitz hugh Lane House
  • Langsford St.: 1,2,9,21,37
  • Leonard St.: 14,28,31,48,53,54,77,81,146,150,152
  • Lincoln St.: Haskell-Atkins House
  • Main St.: 17,19,29,31,33,35,43,43A,45,47,49,50,51,55,61,63,65,67,69,71,196, Cape Ann National Bank, Gorton’s of Gloucester, 304, 308, 316
  • Mansfield St.: 45
  • Marchant St.: 6,12,14,16
  • Mason Sq.: 3
  • Middle St.: 20,21,24,27,35,40,First Univ. Church, 51, Sargent-Murray Gilman House, 52, 58, 61, 62, 63, 68, 69, Temple Ahavath Achim, Sawyer Free Library, 77, 81, 87, 90
  • Mt. Pleasant Ave.: 77,121, 141
  • Mt. Vernon St.: 25, 35, 38
  • Nashua St.: 6
  • Pleasant St.: The Captain’s House, Capt. Elias Davis House, 29-31, 48, 50, 
  • Plum St.: 25
  • Prospect St.: 27, 83,87, 95, 110, 122, Our Lady of Good Voyage Church
  • Rackliff St.: 11
  • Revere St.: 9, 90
  • Riggs Point Road: Old Riggs House
  • River Road: 1, 22, 28
  • Summer St.: 29, 42
  • Walnut St.: 4
  • Washington St.: 3, American Legion Hall, 160, 163, 166, 179, 245, White Ellery House, 303, 372, 433, 490, 508, 525, 546, 726, 827, 828, Annisquam Village Church, 840, 846, 854, 974, 1018, 1061, 1107A, 1133, Lanesville Congregational Church, 1238, 1261, 1273
  • Western Ave.: 1, 15, 53, 349, 359, 197
  • Winchester Court: 2, 115
  • Wonson St.: 2, 24

1890 Boston Globe historic houses article features White Ellery #GloucesterMA

Then and Now

woodcut illustration for 1890 Boston Globe article | photos: c. ryan, mostly 2021

The first Massachusetts home featured in this Boston Globe historic house article was Gloucester’s “Ellery house”, as a classic First Period saltbox:

OLD HOMES, OLD FAMILIES. Houses in New England, Each of Which Has for Three or More Generations Sheltered the Same Race. Romances Drawn from Wood and Brick

The Sunday Globe begins today to publish stories and pictures of old New England homesteads which have sheltered at least three generations of the families now living in them.

This is not so endless a task as some may suppose it to be. New England, no doubt, contains a greater number of old houses than any other division of the country, but it is rare indeed to find one among those that has been long in the possession of the same family. Such a shifting of ownerships may reflect the growing prosperity of the original occupants who perchance have built greater homes than those of their fathers, but often the disappearance of the inheritors of these ancestral houses signifies either the utter extinction or the scattering and breaking up of the family.

The sketches in this series opening today appeal, therefore, in a peculiar way to the public curiosity, and the Sunday Globe would thank any of its readers if they would call attention to any houses within their own knowledge which may be occupied by a family who have possessed the property through three or more generations continuously or otherwise.

There are various periods in the history of Gloucester house building, each marked quite as distinctly to the architectural student as the different strata of the earth’s crust indicate to the geologist the various periods of formation. In the case of the old houses of note it may be said that they all belonged to the upper crust.

The houses of the first settlers of Gloucester, with rare exceptions, have long since been replaced by others of more elaborate design, and the few remaining in the suburbs are small one-story edifices of no particular architectural pretensions.

In common with Boston, Salem, Newburyport and other colonial seaports, Gloucester once owned a large fleet of ships, brigs and barks, that sailed to foreign ports, exchanging the products of the town and of the county for Spanish gold and Surinam molasses, which was converted into New England rum.

These merchants built commodious residences and dispensed a hospitality commensurate with their position as leaders of the social and intellectual life of the town.

The most historic edifice in town is the Ellery house, which stands just below the old meeting house green on Washington street in Riverdale, a suburb of the town.

It was built by Rev. John White shortly after he came here in 1702 to minister to the spiritual wants of the First Parish, receiving a grant of land from the town on which to build his home. At that time the main settlement was in that portion of the community, but the necessities of commerce and fishing made it convenient for the inhabitants to remove nearer the seashore, deserting their first habitations on what is now known as “Dogtown Common,” where the remains of their cellars can still be traced today.

The type of architecture is well portrayed by the accompanying cut. On the projection which overhangs the lower story in front there were four balls pendant, a style of decoration of the times, which have long been removed.

Inside, the old-fashioned low studded style of room is at once apparent, and the antique furnishings and general air of the place make one realize more vividly the age of the house and fixtures, which are of a nature to bring joy to the heart of an antiquarian.

Some of the furniture in the parlor is about 200 years old. The house was bought in 1710 by Capt. William Ellery, and it still remains in the hands of his direct descendants, the occupants being John Ellery and his wife. Thus it will be seen that it has been in this family 150 years.

The purchaser of the house was a son of the original settler, William Ellery. The Ellery family were prominent in the social and intellectual life of the place from the first, being leading merchants. Hon. Benjamin Ellery, called in the family “Admiral,” was the eldest brother of William. He went from Gloucester and settled in Rhode Island and was the father of Deputy Gov. William Ellery and grandfather of William Ellery who signed the Declaration of Independence, the signer being a grandnephew of the first owner of the house.”

Boston Globe 1890*

Read the full article (PDF) to see the other Massachusetts homes selected for the article.

The Declaration of Independence connection was artfully slipped in. Fast facts on the signers from the National archives here.

*For current information visit Cape Ann Museum

The White Ellery House is part of the Cape Ann Museum collection. There are inaccuracies in the 1890 nutshell above. James Stevens and the tavern he operated is absent. The rum trade is acknowledged; any NE slave trade economic connections are not. [Massachusetts was the first colony to legalize slavery. Vermont was the first to abolish (VT 1777 vs. MA 1783).] The article predates the build out of Rt. 128 which rallied a preservation relocation.

Maybe CAM might commission a set of woodcuts of the historic properties as they are now by various local artists.

Beautiful improvements on the grounds of Cape Ann Museum

note: pinch and zoom or double click to enlarge photos.

Gloucester Smiles with Kevin Martin

_2019_01_14_113269

BC Kevin MartinBreakfast at Charlie’s Place and also see Martin in a Gerttyimage used for an article on Dogtown Common.

 

 

 

A Plan To Keep Dogtown Wild And Free : News Photo

“A Plan To Keep Dogtown Wild And Free
GLOUCESTER, MA – MARCH 12: Kevin Martin checks out a Babson Boulder with a ‘Keep Out of Debt’ carving on Dogtown Common in Gloucester, MA on March 12, 2018. The area in Gloucester and Rockport known as Dogtown is hard to pin down. It is part historical site, part recreation area, and part rambling woodland. It is a place where mountain bikers ride rugged trails and history buffs come to explore the remains of Colonial-era homes. No matter how you see Dogtown, the land is an important local resource that needs to be protected, said Mary Ellen Lepionka, co-chair of the Gloucester Historical Commission and one of the leaders of an effort to have Dogtown listed on the National Register of Historic Places. (Photo by John Blanding/The Boston Globe via Getty Images)” Link

Salem witch trials end with Esther Elwell, from Gloucester, Sarah Jessica Parker’s ancestor

Sarah Jessica Parker season 1 episode 1 NBC Who Do You Think You Are tv show_ ancestor ESTHER ELWELL one of 3 women from Gloucester was accused of witchcraft.jpg

In the tv show, Who Do You Think You Are? (March 5 2010), produced by Lisa Kudrow, season 1, episode 1, Sarah Jessica Parker learns that her tenth great grandmother, Esther (Dutch) Elwell, was found guilty of witchcraft in 1692. Her arrest was the last formal accusation recorded during the Salem witch trials. The grisly court was dissolved days prior to her sentencing because spectral evidence was banned. Esther lived to be 82 years old. Parker visited Danvers to meet with historians and inspect the original records, and then on to Salem to pay respects.

Did Sarah Jessica Parker come to Gloucester?

Well, not according to the final edit. The show could have filmed here.

Witches of Gloucester

Beckoned to Gloucester, Salem teenager and accuser, Betty Hubbard, officially confirmed the false suspicions in 1692. And just like that three women from Gloucester– Esther Elwell, Abigail Rowe and Rebecca Dike– were arrested for killing Gloucester resident, Mary Fitch, by witchcraft. Historians determined that nine women from Gloucester were caught up in the witchhunts, jailed, and released (by the spring of 1693). Accused were more often than not related and at odds with accusers, well off, and/or “trouble”.  Collaborating institutions and collections have gathered and digitized 17th century documents. You can peruse them here: http://salem.lib.virginia.edu/17docs.html

Later history of witches in Gloucester revolve around Dogtown. In the 1896 book,  In the Heart of Cape Ann, Charles Mann described Gloucester’s Dogtown as “practically the only ruined city in America.” By then Dogtown legends persisted about “witches” like Tammy Younger (died 1829), her aunt Luce George, Peg Wesson, and Judy Rhines.  Percy Mackaye’s 1921 poem Dogtown Common acknowledged Mann’s book, “curious reader may learn many strange, half fogotten facts concerning the old Puritan life of that region…”  Here’s the eerie opener setting a fitting scene for Halloween.

Inland among the lonely cedar dells
of old Cape Ann, near Gloucester by the sea,
Still live the dead–in homes that used to be.
     All day in dreamy spells
They tattle low with toungues of tinkling cattle
     bells,
Or spirit tappings of some hollow tree,
And there, all night–all night, out of the
     dark–
They bark–and bark.

eerie opening Dogtown Common 110 page poem by Percy Mackaye 1921.jpg

 

Apparently, when Sarah Jessica Parker starred in Hocus Pocus (1993), she did not know this family history. Some of the movie was filmed on location in Salem and Marblehead.

Deborah Cramer’s book The Narrow Edge galvanizes action to push biomedical rescue for horseshoe crabs and red knots! Revive and Restore convenes Eli Lilly to announce environmental breakthrough

horseshoe crab wingaersheek beach low tide January 21 2018 ©c ryan

Biomedical Breakthrough is win-win for shorebirds and horseshoe crabs:  Deborah Cramer of The Narrow Edge spreads the word

“Jay Bolden, a senior biologist with pharma giant Eli Lilly, has spent the last five years proving a synthetic molecule works as well as horseshoe crab blood in a life-saving medical testIt took a dedicated birder to convince pharma giant Eli Lilly to use a synthetic compound instead of horseshoe crab blood in a mandatory medical test. Now, he hopes the rest of industry will follow…” – from National Audubon article published this March 11 2018  Inside the Biomedical Revolution to Save Horseshoe Crabs and the Shorebirds That Need Them, by Deborah Cramer with photographs by Timothy Fadek

Cramer explained that Ryan Phelan, Executive Director and Co-Founder of Revive and Restore contacted her “to see how this organization might help accelerate institutional and government exploration, acceptance of the synthetic endotoxin test to replace the use of horseshoe crabs…In the book, I’d portrayed how essential the energy rich horseshoe crab eggs are to shorebird migration, and how their numbers decline when they leave for the Arctic, hungry.  I’d described how every human family, and their pets, depend on the horseshoe crab blood test to detect potentially life-threatening endotoxin in vaccines, joint replacements, PET scans, heart stents, IV lines, etc.  And went on to tell the story of the development of the genetically engineered substitute, and the– at the time decade long–that had elapsed without it being accepted or adopted by regulators or the pharmaceutical industry.”  

Revive and Restore’s announcement in the NJ Audubon news this week has more information about these dedicated scientists and exciting news. Deborah Cramer is too modest to spell it out, so I will. Revive and Restore was inspired in part by Cramer’s book, The Narrow Edge, an award-winning read that’s smart and lyrical, and an environmental game changer. Have you read it yet?

 

horseshoe crab verso © cryan wingaersheek beach gloucester mass 20180121_070721.jpg

Here was a substitute test that could leave hundreds of thousands of horseshoe crabs in the water every year, no one was using it.

 

 

The Narrow Edge reveals more unexpected alliances and consequences. Readers learn that hunters have done much to protect wildlife at the edge of the sea through the tax on guns and ammunition. The Federal Duck Stamp that’s required on hunting licenses  provides millions of dollars to support national wildlife refuges (and supports contemporary fine art). Memberships to organizations like National Audubon and donations from wildlife fans, photographers, and birders make a difference.

Cramer had to be trained how to handle a gun for necessary wild and remote travel research.  Gloucester, Cape Ann and North Shore readers: she took the course for her license to carry at Cape Ann Sportsman Club found along Dogtown’s edge where it’s been for over a century. (I’m not certain how Cramer rated there, but a president’s daughter was a good shot. In 1912, Helen Taft, qualified as an “Expert with a Rifle” when she visited the range with her Gloucester friend, Elizbeth Hammond.)

1912 Government rifle range in Dogtown Common

prior gmg post, June 2016Piping Plover Fans: Local author Deborah Cramer on sandpipers is a must read. Oh, and dogs vs.

To learn more about Deborah Cramer, go to www.deborahcramer.com

Continue reading “Deborah Cramer’s book The Narrow Edge galvanizes action to push biomedical rescue for horseshoe crabs and red knots! Revive and Restore convenes Eli Lilly to announce environmental breakthrough”

7PM tonight | Dogtown National Heritage project kicks off at Gloucester city hall

Reminder-  Dogtown could be eligible for the National Register. A team of archaeologists began surveying and reviewing Dogtown the week of November 13. Come to a special public presentation TONIGHT – November 29th in Kyrouz Auditorium, Gloucester City Hall, 9 Dale Avenue, at 7pm.

IMG_20171126_160728
 Artistic practice inspired by Dogtown takes on many forms across generations and centuries. I’ve shown examples of 20th century artists and writers connected to Dogtown. Here’s a 21st century one to note: Deborah Guertze, Babson Boulders # (Courage), original small and lovely hand colored etching, ed.50. This particular impression is currently for sale at Rockport Art Association.

Oct 28 GMG post announcing tonight’s public meeting: Before Dogtown was Dogtown: archaeological survey project to be presented at City Hall November 29! Maybe hello blueberries bye bye lyme disease

“Presenters at City Hall on Nov 29th will include Betsy Friedberg from the Massachusetts Historical Commission, who will explain how the National Register program works and what it does and does not do, and Kristen Heitert from the PAL, who will present an initial plan for defining the boundaries of Dogtown as a National Register District. People attending the meeting will be asked to respond to that plan and to express their views about what makes Dogtown special. What should be the boundaries of the proposed National Register District, and what cultural features should be included in it? What would be the benefits of National Register status, and are there any drawbacks?”

Before Dogtown was Dogtown: Archaeological Survey project to be presented at City Hall. Maybe hello blueberries bye bye Lyme Disease

Sharing press release from Mary Ellen Lepionka and Bill Remsen followed by a selection of visual arts, maps, and writing spotlighting Dogtown (1633-1961) by Catherine Ryan.

Nov 29th, 7PM, Public Meeting

Come to a special public presentation November 29th in Kyrouz Auditorium in Gloucester City Hall, 9 Dale Avenue, at 7pm.

Week of Nov 13

“During the week of November 13 a team of archaeologists from the Public Archaeology Laboratory (PAL) in Providence will be conducting fieldwork in Dogtown. They will begin mapping and describing an area to be nominated to the National Register of Historic Places, a National Park Service program to honor historically significant buildings and landscapes.   

What do you think?

“Presenters at City Hall on Nov 29th will include Betsy Friedberg from the Massachusetts Historical Commission, who will explain how the National Register program works and what it does and does not do, and Kristen Heitert from the PAL, who will present an initial plan for defining the boundaries of Dogtown as a National Register District. People attending the meeting will be asked to respond to that plan and to express their views about what makes Dogtown special. What should be the boundaries of the proposed National Register District, and what cultural features should be included in it? What would be the benefits of National Register status, and are there any drawbacks?

Who all is involved?

“The Dogtown archaeological survey is funded through a matching grant from the Massachusetts Historical Commission and the Dusky Foundation and is financed by the City of Gloucester. The Gloucester Historical Commission applied for the grant and is coordinating the project in collaboration with the Rockport Historical Commission. The PAL team will also have the assistance of members of the Dogtown Advisory Committee, the Rockport Rights of Way Committee, the Cape Ann Trail Stewards, and the Friends of Dogtown.”

– Dogtown is eligible for the National Register. Will Gloucester earn another major district designation? Above excerpts from the press release for the Nov 29th event shared by Bill Remsen, local project coordinator, and Mary Ellen Lepionka, co-chair Gloucester Historical Commission, and some Dogtown maps and memorabilia 1633-1961

Dogtown Maps and memorabilia 1633-1961 selected by Catherine Ryan

Prior 2017 Dogtown public forums, lectures and meetings mentioned consideration of controlled burns to clear brush and return some land to a former moors state, with various potential benefits.

  • “Nature takes a lot of courses.” Chris Leahy said. He focused on Dogtown, “a very special place”, and possible merits of land stewardship geared at fostering greater biodiversity. Perhaps some of the core acres could be coaxed to grasslands as when parts of Gloucester were described as moors? Characteristic wildlife, butterflies, and birds no longer present may swing back.” March 4 2017 Dogtown Forum at Cape Ann Museum in collaboration with Essex County Greenbelt, Mass Audubon, and Friends of Dogtown group
  • February 23, 2017 Chris Leahy also gave a talk at Sawyer Free Library Dogtown- the Biography of a Landscape:750 Million Years Ago to the Present
    A photographic history through slides presented by the Gloucester Lyceum and the Friends of the Library
  • March 6, 2017: NPR report “Forbidding Forecast for Lyme Disease in the Northeast” excerpt and article  https://www.npr.org/player/embed/518219485/518743106
  • “Today the Hudson River Valley in upstate New York is gorgeous. The hills are covered with oak forests, and the valleys are patchworks of hayfields and farms. But Ostfeld says the area didn’t always look like this. When the Europeans came here hundreds of years ago, they clear-cut nearly all of the forests to plant crops and raise livestock. “They also cut down trees for commercial use,” Ostfeld says, “to make masts for ships, and for firewood.” Since then a lot of the forest has come back — but it’s not the same forest as before, he says. Today it’s all broken up into little pieces, with roads, farms and housing developments. For mice, this has been great news. “They tend to thrive in these degraded, fragmented landscapes,” Ostfeld says, because their predators need big forests to survive. Without as many foxes, hawks and owls to eat them, mice crank out babies. And we end up with forests packed with mice — mice that are chronically infected with Lyme and covered with ticks.”

Selection of maps

from books, and memorabilia I’ve pulled on Dogtown (1634-1961):

1961

From Gloucester 1961 Cape Ann Festival of the Arts booklet

reprinted within Gloucester 1961 Cape Ann Festival of the Arts booklet.jpg

1954

From Gloucester 1954 Festival of the Arts booklet, prepared for the second of the Russel Crouse Prize Play, the Witch of Dogtown, by S. Foster Damon. “Each year it is hoped new plays dealing with the Gloucester or Cape Ann theme will be produced.”

Gloucester 3rd annual 1954 Cape Ann Festival of the Arts - Dogtown map for back cover
Joshua Batchelder 1741 survey map of “a good part of Dogtown common” printed and annotated for Gloucester’s 3rd Annual Cape Ann Festival of the Arts in 1954
index of Dogtown old cellars for map in Gloucester 3rd annual 1954 Cape Ann Festival of the Arts - Dogtown
1954 Index to annotated map

1923 Christian Science Monitor art review for Gloucester Society of Artists

Dogtown Common, the now deserted hill home of the first settlers who 300 years ago braved the dangers of a hostile and Indian Annisquam, offers both romance and reality. It has remained for Louise Upton Brumback to interpret its clear contrasts, its far spaces, blue skies, white clouds and stiff green pointed cedars. Although the draftsmanship is crude in the extreme, the effect is rare and genuine. The old resident who passes through the gallery will shake his head dubiously at the false color creations of harbor and rock, but accepts this striking and bold visualization of Dogtown Common as the true spirit of Cape Ann…”

1920_Brumback_Dogtown.jpg

1921 Percy MacKaye Dogtown poem, 110+ pp

Inland among the lonely cedar dells
Of Old Cape Ann, near Gloucester by the Sea,
Still live the Dead–in homes that used to be.
     All day in dreamy spells
They tattle low with sounds of tinkling cattle
          bells
Or spirit tappings of some hollow tree
And there, all night–out of the
          dark–
They bark–and bark…

“Note: From a little volume, by Charles E. Mann, entitled “In the Heart of Cape Ann” Gloucester, Mass., The Proctor Bros. Co), the curious reader may learn more strange, half forgotten facts concerning the old Puritan life of that region. Among its singular New England characters, certain authentic and legendary figures have entered the theme of this poem.
P.M-K. Miami University, Oxford, Ohio. March, 1921

Percy MacKaye (1875–1956) was an American dramatist and poet.

Harvard MacKaye papers:History note: Percy Wallace MacKaye, author and dramatist, graduated from Harvard in 1897, wrote poetic dramas, operatic libretti, modern masques and spectacles, and was active in promoting community theatre. The collection includes his papers and those of his wife, Marion Homer Morse MacKaye, as well as material relating to the career of his father Steele MacKaye (1842-1894), an American theatrical designer, actor, dramatist, and inventor. The bulk of the collection consists of material pertaining to community drama; correspondence with literary and theatrical figures including Edgar Lee Masters, Edwin Arlington Robinson, George Pierce Baker, Theodore Dreiser, Amy Lowell, Upton Sinclair, Edward Gordon Craig, Louis Untermeyer and Thornton Wilder.”

Dartmouth: The MacKaye Family Papers “contain materials documenting the life and career of four generations of the family. They include a large amount of personal and professional correspondence as well as original manuscripts and typescripts of plays, prose, masques, pageants, poetry, essays and articles. Of note are manuscript materials for Benton MacKaye’s works on geotechnics entitled “Geotechnics of North America,” and “From Geography to Geotechnics,” as well as Percy MacKaye’s biography and works on his father Steele MacKaye and the MacKaye family, entitled respectively, “Epoch,” and “Annals of an Era.”

(Gloucester, Dogtown Common, is not on the MacKaye Wikipedia page)

1921 Frank L Cox  The Gloucester Book

Business owner, photographer, author Frank L Cox devoted 7 pages and 4 photographs to illustrate the Dogtown and Its Story chapter

Dogtown chapter 1921 from The Gloucester Book written, illustrated and and photography by Frank L Cox
Great read p.23  from the Dogtown and Its Story chapter, in The Gloucester Book, written and illustrated by Frank L. Cox, 1921
Dogtown chapter 1921 from The Gloucester Book written, illustrated and photography by Frank L Cox.jpg

Just to the left of the road at the top of Gee Avenue is one of the most celebrated ceallar in Dogtown. It is that of John Morgan Stanwood, who was mistakenly made famous by a poem by Hiram Rich, published in the Atlantic…” 

Dogtown chapter 1921 from The Gloucester Book written, illustrated and and photography by Frank L Cox page 22.jpg
Great read p.22 from the Dogtown and Its Story chapter, in The Gloucester Book, by Frank L. Cox, 1921

1918 Eben Comins painting

Eben Comins Dogtown, Gloucester
Eben Comins 1918

1912 government rifle range Dogtown

1912 Government rifle range in Dogtown Common

1904 (1742)

Mann copy from MA archives ca.1906 after 1742
ca.1904 Charles E. Mann map copied from 1742 map in MA archives collection
Story of Dogtown Charles Mann 1906.jpg
Mann

1877 Higginson

“Three miles inland, as I remember, we found the hearthstones of a vanished settlement; then we passed a swamp with cardinal flowers; then a cathedral of noble pines, topped with crow’s-nests. If we had not gone astray by this time, we presently emerged on Dogtown Common, an elevated table-land, over spread with great boulders as with houses, and encircled with a girdle of green woods and an outer girdle of blue sea. I know of nothing more wild than that gray waste of boulders..”

Dogtown, Cape Ann, described in Footpaths chapter Oldport Days 

1855 Thoreau / 1634 William Wood

on clearing land…

In 1855, Henry David Thoreau wrote in his journal: “I am [reading] William Wood’s “New England’s Prospect”… William Wood New Englands Prospect was originally published in 1634 in London. Here is a Wood excerpt concerning burning brush to clear land, a historical antecedent (and apt surname) to keep in mind when considering stewardship 2017 and beyond.

…The next commodity the land affords is good store of woods, and that not only such as may be needful for fuel but likewise for the building of ships and houses and mills and all manner of water-work about which wood is needful. The timber of the country grows straight and tall, some trees being twenty, some thirty foot high, before they spread forth their branches; generally the trees be not very thick, though there may be many that will serve for mill posts, some being three foot and a half over. And whereas it is generally conceived that the woods grow so thick that there is no more clear ground than is hewed out by labor of man, it is nothing so, in many places diverse acres being clear so that one may ride a hunting in most places of the land if he will venture himself for being lost. There is no underwood saving in swamps and low grounds that are wet, in which the English get Osiers and Hasles and such small wood as is for their use. Of these swamps, some be ten, some twenty, some thirty miles long, being preserved by the wetness of the soil wherein they grow; for it being the custom of the Indians to burn the wood in November when the grass is withered and leaves dried, it consumes all the underwood and rubbish which otherwise would overgrow the country, making it unpassable, and spoil their much affected hunting; so that by this means in those places where the Indians inhabit there is scarce a bush or bramble or any cumbersome underwood to be seen in the more champion ground. Small wood, growing in these places where the fire could not come, is preserved. In some places, where the Indians died of the plague some fourteen years ago, is much underwood, as in the midway betwixt Wessaguscus and Plimouth, because it hath not been burned. Certain rivers stopping the fire from coming to clear that place of the country hath made it unuseful and troublesome to travel thorow, in so much that it is called ragged plaine, because it teares and rents the cloathes of them that pass. Now because it may be necessary for mechanical Artificers to know what timber and wood of use is in the Country, I will recite the most useful as followeth*…”  *see photos for Wood’s trees list

Thoreau was thinking along these lines, finding god in berries.

“From William Wood’s New England’s Prospect, printed about 1633, it would appear that strawberries were much more abundant and large here before they were impoverished or cornered up by cultivation. “Some,” as he says, “being two inches about, one may gather half a bushel in a forenoon.” They are the first blush of a country, its morning red, a sort of ambrosial food which grows only on Olympian soil.” -Thoreau’s Wild Fruit

“If you look closely you will find blueberry and huckleberry bushes under your feet, though they may be feeble and barren, throughout all our woods, the most persevering Native Americans, ready to shoot up into place and power at the next election among the plants, ready to reclothe the hills when man has laid them bare and feed all kinds of pensioners.”

photos: William Wood’s New Englands Prospect scanned from book in the University of CA collection. “Wonasquam” on map at Cape Ann

Thomas Morton 1637 

“Of their Custom in burning the Country, and the reason thereof”
The Salvages are accustomed to set fire of the Country in all places where they come, and to burne it twice a year: at the Spring, and the fall of the leaf. The reason that moves them to do so, is because it would other wise be so overgrown with underweeds that it would be all a coppice wood, and the people would not be able in any wise to pass through the Country out of a beaten path…
And this custom of firing the Country is the meanes to make it passable; and by that meanes the trees growe here and there as in our parks: and makes the Country very beautiful and commodious.”

Cape Ann Museum book shop display October 2017

IMG_20171028_093844.jpg

RECONNECTING BLUEBERRIES AND BUTTERFLIES TO OUR CAPE ANN LANDSCAPE

the_berry_pickers

Winslow Homer “The Berry Pickers”

Forum on the Cape Ann Landscapes

A thoughtful and thought provoking forum was held this morning at the Cape Ann Museum. The discussion was led by Ed Becker, president of the Essex County Greenbelt Association, with presentations by Mark Carlotto from Friends of Dogtown; Tim Simmons, restoration ecologist; Mass Audubon’s Chris Leahy; and Cape Ann Museum representative Bonnie Sontag.

cape-ann-museum-landscape-forum-panel-copyright-kim-smithSpeakers, left to right, Mark Carlotto, Chris Leahy, Tim Simmons, Bonnie Sontag, and Ed Becker 

le_beau_port_map
Today, the undeveloped areas of Cape Ann look much as it did when Champlain arrived in 1606, a mostly verdant forested peninsula, with some land management of grasslands conducted by the Native Americans that farmed and fished the landscape. In the coming months, the community will be examining how to restore very specific areas of Dogtown to the years when the landscape was at its most productive and richest in biodiversity, approximately 1700 to 1950. Most areas will remain forested and others will be returned to grasslands, moors, meadows, and pastures, similar to how it appeared when 19th and 20th century artists such as Homer, Hopper, Hartley, and Brumback painted Dogtown Common.

hartley-whales-jaw-drawingMarsden Hartley Whales Jaw sketch

1bd8f13fba714472ff5580eb3b965437

brumback-33406-webBrumback’s view of Dogtown in the eaqrly 1900s

pond-gloucester-massachusetts-copyright-kim-smithA typical Dogtown landscape of today

Tim Simmons charmed the audience with his “Blueberry Metric,” a formula whereby prior to grassland restoration, it takes approximately one hour to pick four cups of blueberries. After a blueberry patch has been restored, the time to pick a pie’s worth of blueberries is reduced to just 20 to 30 minutes. Here is Tim explaining how fire management helps blueberry bushes become more productive:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BROu4H5lwrW/

Not only blueberries but many, many species of wildlife, especially those in sharp decline, such as Prairie Warblers, Eastern Whippoorwills, native bees, and nearly all butterflies, will benefit tremendously from restoring native grassland and meadow habitats.

This is an exciting time for Cape Ann’s open spaces and a great deal of input from the community will be needed. A facebook page is in the making. It takes time to effect positive change, but the alternative of doing nothing is not really an option at all. Eventually a fire will occur and when landscapes are not managed well, the outcome may well be cataclysmic.

 

8957bc06d5e03af88ea7613e9ee09067

From the Cape Ann Museum: The once open landscape of Cape Ann, a mosaic of glacial boulders, pastures and moors, has given way over the past century to a uniform forest cover. Through short presentations and public engagement, this forum examines the issues, methods and benefits of restoring this formerly diverse and productive landscape. Can Cape Ann once again include the open, scenic terrain that inspired painters, writers, walkers, bird watchers and foragers of wild blueberries? Come and lend your voice to this exciting and important conversation moderated by Ed Becker, President of the Essex County Greenbelt Association. The forum is offered in collaboration with Essex County Greenbelt, Friends of Dogtown, Lanesville Community Center and Mass Audubon.forest_succession_ecology-0011
Successional forest regeneration graphics and images courtesy Google image search